2008 Acura TL Wheel Interchange

OEM wheel/tire sizes and fitment specs for the 2008 Acura TL.

2008 Acura TL wheel fitment guide

I learned to approach the 2008 Acura TL in stages. Think of it as building a mental model around a few anchor specs, then using the on-page calculator to explore safe room for change. That rhythm keeps projects on time and avoids rubbing or vibration surprises.

1. Starting point

When I set up a TL, I lock down the core factory specs first. These are the anchors that make interchange decisions predictable.

SpecKnown for 2008 TLNotes
Bolt pattern5x114.3Five studs on a 114.3 mm circle. This is your primary interchange gate.
Center bore64.1 mmHonda/Acura common size. Larger bores can be used with rings. Smaller bores will not seat.
Thread sizeM12 x 1.5Match lug hardware to this thread and seat style. Confirm the seat type on your wheels.
Observed factory wheel18 x 8.0 ET45Backspacing about 5.77 in. Seen on higher trims or packages.
Observed factory tire235/45R17Also seen in this model year. Trim and package dependent.

There is variation by trim and package in 2008. Some cars were delivered with 17 inch wheel and tire packages, others with 18 inch. If your door-jamb placard or build sheet shows different factory sizing, use that as your baseline. The calculator on this page lets you set your exact stock size before you compare anything.

2. Small win

My first quick win is confirming bolt pattern and hub fit. If a candidate wheel is not 5x114.3, I move on. If the center bore is larger than 64.1 mm, I plan hub-centric rings to keep the wheel centered on the hub. If the bore is smaller, I do not force it. That prevents vibration and simplifies install day.

Next, I open the calculator. I set “Installed on” to 2008 Acura TL, then pick a likely “Wheels from” donor or enter a custom size. Even before I consider tires, the offset comparison tells me how far the wheel will move inside and outside. Rule of thumb. A 5 mm offset change moves the wheel about 5 mm laterally. More negative pushes outward. More positive tucks inward.

3. Expand scope

Once the anchors are set, I use the calculator to explore combinations. Think of it as a safe sandbox.

  • Custom wheel size. Try 17 or 18 inch diameters with widths around the 8.0 in baseline. Watch inner clearance and outer “poke” change live.
  • Custom tire size. Adjust section width and aspect ratio. The calculator updates overall diameter so you can keep speedometer error in check.
  • Baseline choice. If your TL came with 17 inch wheels, set that as stock before you test 18 inch options. If it came with 18s, set that baseline instead. You will see the exact delta for brake, fender, and strut clearance.

I keep an eye on two numbers. Inner clearance to the suspension and strut, and outer poke relative to the fender edge. Small changes in offset and width compound. For example, an extra 0.5 in of width adds roughly 6.35 mm per side. Combine that with a 5 mm offset change and the calculator will show whether you are gaining or losing space where it matters.

4. Refine

This is where I dial in road manners and fitment details. The TL responds well when wheels are centered, loads are respected, and tire diameter stays close to stock.

  • Centering. If the wheel bore is larger than 64.1 mm, plan hub-centric rings sized to 64.1 mm inner. This helps avoid highway vibration. Example shopping query: hub-centric rings 64.1 mm.
  • Lug hardware. Match M12 x 1.5 threads and the correct seat type for your wheels. A quality torque wrench helps you hit the spec from your service manual. Example: 1/2 inch drive torque wrench.
  • Backspacing as a sanity check. The known 18 x 8.0 ET45 shows about 5.77 in backspacing. If your custom setup shows much deeper backspacing, expect tighter inner clearance. The calculator will quantify that change.
  • Brake caliper clearance. I plan a test fit or a paper template check when pushing toward lower offsets or different spoke designs. Face shape matters as much as numbers here.
  • Tire diameter. Keep total diameter close to your stock baseline in the calculator. That supports ABS and speedometer behavior.
  • Load rating. I confirm the wheel load rating meets or exceeds the TL’s axle loads. If spec is not listed, I contact the wheel maker.

For mounting day, I like simple helpers: a wheel hanger stud sized for M12 x 1.5 and a compact caliper for quick clearance checks. Example links: M12 x 1.5 wheel hanger, digital caliper.

5. Validate

Before buying, I validate on three fronts.

  • OEM sources. Cross-check your factory size on the door-jamb tire placard or by VIN with a dealer. If your TL shows 17 inch factory tires, start your calculator baseline with that. If it shows 18 inch, set that instead.
  • Calculator deltas. Look for comfortable inner clearance in millimeters and a sane outer poke that will not contact the fender liner on compression or steering.
  • Hands-on checks. Test fit one wheel without a tire to confirm hub, lug seating, and caliper clearance. After final install, road test gently and recheck lug torque after a short drive using your manual’s spec.

6. Summary

Quick recap. Your 2008 Acura TL uses a 5x114.3 bolt pattern, 64.1 mm center bore, and M12 x 1.5 threads. Factory equipment in this year appears in both 17 inch and 18 inch packages depending on trim. Treat your exact factory size as the baseline in the calculator, then explore offset and width changes in small steps while watching inner clearance and outer poke. Plan hub-centric rings if your wheel bore is larger than 64.1 mm, confirm load ratings, and validate with a test fit. This stepwise approach keeps the process clear and leaves you with a confident, rub-free result.

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