2000 Audi A6 wheel fitment guide

Accurate, safety-first wheel and tire advice for DIY owners and technicians. Use the on-page calculator to validate every change against your car.

tl;dr

The 2000 Audi A6 baseline is 5x112, 57.1 mm hub, M14x1.5 hardware, 16x7 ET45 with 205/55R16. Do not assume other sizes fit. Clear every change with the calculator and a physical test fit. Keep it hub-centric and verify brake and fender clearance before driving.

Recommendation

Start from the OEM baseline

These values reflect known OEM fitment for the 2000 A6. Trims and brake packages may vary. Confirm the placard on the driver door jamb and the ET stamp on the wheel.

How to use the calculator

• Set Installed on to 2000 Audi A6.
• Use the OEM figures above as your baseline.
• Enter a donor wheel or a custom size to compare.
• Adjust rim width and offset to see inner clearance and outer poke changes.
• Change tire size. The tool updates overall diameter so you can track speedo and fender clearance.

Keep hub bore at 57.1 mm or use hub-centric rings if your wheel’s bore is larger. Match thread size at M14x1.5 and verify the seat type on your existing hardware before installing aftermarket wheels.

Impact

What changes actually do

• Offset: Lower ET pushes the wheel outward. Higher ET pulls it inward. A 10 mm offset change equals roughly 10 mm change in inner clearance and outer poke.
• Width: Each additional inch adds about 12.7 mm per side split across inner and outer based on offset.
• Diameter: Larger rims often need lower-profile tires to keep overall diameter near stock. The calculator shows the difference and speedometer effect.
• Center bore: Larger-than-57.1 mm requires rings to stay hub-centric. Smaller will not fit.
• Bolt pattern: 5x112 is non-negotiable. Adapters add thickness and change effective offset. Validate carefully if used.

Ride, handling, and wear

• Wider setups can improve grip but may tramline more.
• Lower profiles sharpen steering but reduce impact compliance.
• Incorrect offset loads wheel bearings and can rub liners or fenders.

Risks

• Brake caliper and barrel contact. Some trims may have larger brakes. Always test fit and spin the wheel by hand.
• Fender and liner rub at bump or full lock. Check with suspension compressed and steering both ways.
• Vibration from non-hub-centric mounting. Use correct rings if the wheel bore exceeds 57.1 mm.
• Hardware incompatibility. Mismatched thread size or seat type can loosen under load. Verify before driving.
• Load rating and speed rating shortfalls. Match or exceed OEM ratings printed on your tire placard.
• Speedometer error from large diameter changes. Keep overall diameter close to stock unless you recalibrate.

Gotchas: Do not rely on “it fits my buddy’s car.” Production changes and trim-level brakes differ. Do not force wheels over a smaller hub bore. Do not reuse damaged bolts. Always torque to the OEM spec from your service manual.

Next actions

Checklist

• Confirm your exact OEM spec on the door jamb and wheel stamps.
• Baseline the calculator with 16x7 ET45 and 205/55R16.
• Model any new wheel and tire in the calculator. Keep clearances positive.
• If the new wheel bore is larger than 57.1 mm, add hub-centric rings sized to that wheel’s bore.
• Physically test fit one corner. Check brake, strut, and fender clearance. Turn lock to lock and compress the suspension.
• Install with clean M14x1.5 hardware. Verify seat type matches the wheel. Torque to the factory spec from your repair guide.
• Road test at low speed. Re-torque after 50–100 miles.

Helpful tools

• 1/2 inch torque wrench
• Digital caliper for hub and clearance checks
• Wheel hanger guide pin M14x1.5
• Tire pressure gauge

If a spec is unclear or differs by trim, use the calculator here and verify with OEM documentation before purchasing.