2013 Dodge Charger Wheel Interchange

2013 Dodge Charger Wheel Fitment And Interchange Guide | wheelinterchange.com

Known OEM Fitment For 2013 Dodge Charger

The values below are provided for at least one factory configuration of the 2013 Dodge Charger. Trims and option packages can differ. If a value on your vehicle does not match, use your door-jamb tire sticker, owner’s manual, and the on-page calculator to confirm your exact baseline before choosing wheels or tires.

Note: The wheel and tire entries above may reflect different OEM packages. That is normal when multiple factory setups exist. Backspacing can also vary depending on how a wheel’s width is measured by the manufacturer. Always verify your specific vehicle’s OEM setup by VIN and door-jamb label, then use the calculator to compare any changes.

How To Use The Wheel Interchange Calculator

• Set “Installed on (your vehicle)” to 2013 Dodge Charger.
• Establish your baseline:
  • Read the current tire size off your sidewall (example format: 215/65R17) and confirm your wheel size in the owner’s manual or door-jamb label.
  • If your car has 18-inch wheels, use those values. If it has 17-inch tires as listed above, use that as your starting point.
• Choose a donor vehicle or enter a “Custom wheel size” (diameter, width, offset) and “Custom tire size” (section width, aspect ratio).
• Review the comparison:
  • Overall tire diameter change and estimated speedometer error.
  • Inner clearance to strut/coilover and outer “poke” toward the fender.
  • Track width change and scrub radius impact from offset changes.
• Check hub/bolt details:
  • Bolt pattern must be 5x115.
  • Center bore on the Charger is 71.6 mm. Wheels with larger bores can be made hub-centric with rings; smaller bores will not fit.
  • Thread size is M14x1.5. Ensure fasteners match both thread and seat type required by the wheel.
• Iterate until inner clearance is safe, outer poke is acceptable, and the tire’s overall diameter change is small (commonly within about 2 to 3% of your baseline) to preserve ABS/ESC function and speedometer accuracy.
• Print or save your final specs and cross-check against OEM service information for your exact trim.

Fitment Checklist Before You Buy

• Bolt pattern: exact 5x115 match only.
• Center bore: 71.6 mm. Larger bores require hub-centric rings; smaller will not seat.
• Threads/fasteners: M14x1.5. Use the correct seat style for your wheels; do not mix conical, ball, or mag seats.
• Offset/clearance: Start from your OEM baseline (one documented setup is 18x7.5 ET 24). Use the calculator to ensure:
  • Adequate inner clearance to struts, spring perches, and liners at full lock and full bump.
  • Outer poke remains within the fender line with suspension loaded.
• Backspacing: verify with the calculator and, if needed, measure directly with a straightedge and tape.
• Brake fitment: confirm caliper and barrel clearance. If you have larger rotors/calipers (performance packages), test fit or use a template.
• Load rating: wheel and tire load ratings must meet or exceed OEM requirements for your trim and GVWR.
• Tires: choose sizes within the approved rim width range; maintain adequate load index and speed rating.
• TPMS: verify sensor compatibility for your VIN. Plan for reprogramming/relearn after installation.
• Thread engagement: ensure at least one full stud diameter of thread engagement on M14 hardware. Do not use worn or damaged fasteners.

Plus Sizing And Common Upgrades

Use your actual OEM setup as the baseline. When plus-sizing the wheel:

• Keep overall tire diameter close to stock (commonly within about 2 to 3%) to protect ABS/ESC function and speedometer accuracy.
• If you increase wheel width, adjust offset so inner clearance and outer poke remain safe. As a general concept, half of any added width goes inward and half outward unless offset is changed.
• Select a tire size that fits the wheel width within the manufacturer’s approved range to maintain proper bead seating and handling.
• Staggered setups reduce rotation options and require front/rear rolling diameters to remain closely matched. Verify with the calculator.
• Performance brakes may reduce wheel options; verify spoke and barrel clearance before buying.

Installation Tips

• Support the car on quality jack stands placed at approved lift points. Chock wheels.
• Clean hub faces and studs with a nylon or brass brush; remove rust and debris. A very light film of anti-seize on the hub centering lip can help prevent future sticking. Do not lubricate lug seats.
• If using hub-centric rings, seat them fully on the wheel before mounting.
• Hand-start all lugs to avoid cross-threading. Snug in a star pattern, then torque in stages to the OEM specification from your owner’s manual/service information. Re-torque after 50–100 miles.
• TPMS: replace seals/cores as needed, follow the relearn procedure for your vehicle, and do not over-torque aluminum valve stems.
• After installation, cycle the steering lock-to-lock and check clearance at full bump. Road-test for vibration; if present, re-check hub-centric seating and balance.

Tools And Helpful Supplies

• 1/2 inch drive torque wrench
• M14x1.5 lug nuts (correct seat style for your wheels)
• 71.6 mm hub-centric rings for wheels with larger center bores
• TPMS service kit (seals/cores/caps)

FAQs

• Is 5x114.3 the same as 5x115 for a 2013 Charger?

  No. Use the exact 5x115 pattern. Mixing patterns risks improper seating and stud stress. The calculator will not correct a bolt-pattern mismatch.

• What center bore do I need?

  71.6 mm. Larger-bore wheels can be made hub-centric with rings; smaller bores will not fit the hub.

• My door sticker shows 17-inch tires, but I see 18-inch wheel data here. What should I follow?

  Follow your vehicle’s actual OEM baseline from the door-jamb label/owner’s manual. The values above may represent a different factory package. Enter your true baseline into the calculator before comparing upgrades.

• What offset should I use on aftermarket wheels?

  Start from your OEM offset (one listed configuration is ET 24 mm on a 18x7.5 wheel) and use the calculator to verify inner clearance and outer poke. Test fit when possible, especially with big brakes or wider tires.

• Do I need new lug nuts?

  The thread must be M14x1.5, but the seat type depends on the wheel. Many aftermarket wheels require a different seat than OEM. Match the wheel’s seat design.

• Can I run spacers or adapters?

  If necessary, use quality hub-centric components that maintain a 71.6 mm hub and correct 5x115 pattern. Ensure proper thread engagement and re-check torque. Avoid stacking spacers.

• What’s the correct lug torque?

  Use the torque specified in your owner’s manual or OEM service information for your exact trim and fastener type. Re-torque after the first 50–100 miles.

• Why doesn’t backspacing in the table match my calculation?

  Backspacing depends on whether “measured width” or “overall width” is used and can vary by brand. Confirm with a direct measurement and use the calculator to visualize clearance.